PEUGEOT BOXER 1.9Ltr Diesel Engine Page 12

 
 

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You will find clicking on my email contact will bring up message: Internet Explorer restricts this page from running scripts 'ActiveX code' just click OK

These pages are dedicated to my experiences of the Peugeot Boxer, and not definitive advise.  
To contact brian,

Keep forgetting your MOT, then this site will remind you:
http://auto-reminder.co.uk/

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As author and maintainer of this web site. I do not save, retain, or sell  any email addresses of those who email me. Should you not get a reply from me, please send again, I might have missed it in my spam catcher!

New additions: 

1.Fitting a Turbo Boost Gauge
2.Replacing clutch Cable 
3. Changing the temperature switch and Boiling switch sensors on the XUD9TE Engine

Images are shown as a 'Thumbnail.' Clicking on these will link to the complete image

 

To Page Links and contents information of above buttons

Contents: 

1. 6000Mile Service. 2. Tyre Pressure Monitor


SERVICE SCHEDULE

PEUGEOT BOXER 1.9Ltr TURBO DIESEL WITH INTERCOOLER.

Safety Considerations:

Servicing the Motorhome can be dangerous if  proper procedures are not followed.

Take care when jacking up the vehicle. Use proper tools and ensure the vehicle is on stands when doing any work after the vehicle is jacked up.

When jacking up ensure the wheels at the end not being raised, are chocked.

Brake pads and linings dust can be ASBESTOS.  Wear a mask and do not inhale. It is carcogenic.

It is recommended to use gloves or/and a barrier cream on your hands while doing any work on the engine.

Oil should be disposed of at the local Authority dumps. Where they have facilities to empty your old oil. [ Take the opportunity to test the engine after a service and dump your oil]

 

Engine Service Programme:

Most of us will take our vehicles to a known garage and have the service performed. 

My main service is due every March.  A recent magazine recommended a service for Motorhomes which are laid up during winter, before the lay up.

Do I pay the full price of a garage or perhaps do some routine servicing myself. 

The 'Car Mechanics' magazine is a hive of information for the DIY mechanic, after a few months reading and with increased confidence, I decided at least to do an oil change.

Below are some hints I prepared for those who might want to carry out their 'Service'

Service is recommended every 6000 miles or every 6 Months. see schedule and photos below.

You will find a lot of the service information is now required by law in the driving test.

Most of the work is non mechanical and just requires a visual check, thereby giving oneself more confidence driving the Motorhome.

I found my simple oil change developed into a little more!

A work schedule might be:

  • Change the engine oil and oil filter, with 10W/40SAE. As recommended in the handbook, and more suitable for the turbo in cold weather.

  • Renew diesel fuel filter. Prime the knob a few times to fill the filter with fuel after the change.

  • Change the air filter.

  • Check the radiator coolant level in the expansion tank.

  • Check the power steering fluid level.

  • Check the brake fluid.

  • Check the battery terminals. Place grease on the terminals

  • Check the gear box oil level. This can be difficult, perhaps a garage job. A Peter Russek Manual is recommended for the gear box oil level checks and gear box oil change, which is recommended every 40,000 miles. [ Cables to the monitoring plug have to be removed and then the insert plug removed for checking!]

    On my  gear box there is a draining and filler plugs. The filler plug is also  the gear box level position.

  • Check the drive shaft gaiters and suspension bushes, both inner at the gear box and outer at the wheel.

  • Check the suspension bushes for cracks and perishing.

  • Check the exhaust, especially the flexible link between the manifold and the exhaust pipe.

  • Check the brake pads and discs.

  • Check and fill the windscreen washer reservoir.

  • Check the tyre pressures including the spare.

  • Check the Headlamps and windscreen for stone damage.

  • Check the functions of all the electrics, lights, indicators, wipers, windscreen washers, and horn. Check the hydraulic headlamp level adjustment.

  • Lubricate all hinges and cables, especially the bonnet catch.

  • Check as many of the electrical monitoring plugs and sockets as possible in the engine looms. Pull them apart, clean them with switch cleaner.

  • Clear all debris and leaves from the area around the windscreen base and heater input.

  • Check the rear brakes and handbrake cable, Ensure the brake pistons are not leaking. [This can be difficult, perhaps a garage job. A Peter Russek Manual is recommended for the this work,  which is recommended every 40,000 miles.]

  • Check the clutch action. Do the gears crash when changing some times? It did with mine because the cable was not pulling the clutch off far enough. Tightening the clutch cable about an half/inch cured the problem.

    If you do carry out any service work. Make a record of it! It is so easy to forget in 6 months time what you did, the date and mileage.

    Below I have included a service sheet which I use when I do my own 'Servicing'

    1. Drain old engine oil.

    Oil Sump and drain  Plug
    Oil Sump and drain Plug.

    2. Renew engine OIL filter.


Oil Filter

    3. Renew engine OIL with 15W40SAE

    4. Renew engine AIR filter.

    Air Filter
    Air Filter.

    5. Renew diesel FUEL filter. Prime the rubber knob a few times to fill the filter with fuel after changing.

     

    Diesel Fuel Filter
    Diesel Fuel Filter.

    6. Check Radiator Coolant level and concentration.

    Radiator Coolant level
     
    Radiator Coolant and Windscreen levels.

    7. Check Brake Fluid.

    Brake and Power assisted  reservoirs
    Brake and Power assisted steering  reservoirs.

    8. Check Power Assisted gear reservoir.

    9. Check all rubber pipes. Look for pipes which have scoring due to vibration contact.

    Check all rubber pipes
    Check all rubber pipes
    especially  the diesel return pipes off the injectors

    10. Check Battery connections, and battery earth points on the engine. Place some silicon grease on the terminals. 

    Battery
     
    Battery

    11. Move front wheels to enable a check on the CV Gaitersand brake pipes.

    Gaiters
    Gaiter on drive shaft

    12. Check Inner drive shaft gaiter and gear linkages above it for sloppy movement.

    Inner Drve shaft Gaiter
    Gaiter Inner Drive shaft Gaiter

 

     13. While in this position. Check suspension bushes for cracks and perishing.

 

    14. Check gear box oil level with the dip stick. [See my notes above some gear boxes do not have a dip stick]

    15. Check exhaust pipes from front to rear, also the flexible joint at the back of the engine from the exhaust manifold. This can get small holes in the  weld.

Exhaust Manifold Joint
Exhaust Manifold Joint

    16. Check tyre pressures, not forgetting the spare tyre.
    See alongside my method of monitoring the tyre pressures.

Tyre Pressure Monitor

Tyre Pressure Monitor

     17. Slacken off front wheel bolts. Jack up front wheels and remove wheel, check the brake discs for  excessive scoring and pads for wear depth.

    18. Check all lights for function and note any stone scratches on the headlamps.

    19. Check Horn, wipers and rubbers, and washers for function, and top up washer reservoir.

New Horn
New Horn

    20. Grease and lubricate all hinges and catches, with special attention to the bonnet catch.

Bonnet Catch

Bonnet Catch

    21. Check wiring under the bonnet for loose cables and plugs,  secure them if required.

    22. Clear leaves from the area around the base of the front screen and bonnet heater input.

    Ensure the heater air input is clear of debris, and the water drain is clear, this drains down to the interior of the engine compartment.

Leaf Debris on air input.
Leaf Debris on the air input

    23. Check the radiator switch sensor located below the bottom radiator output tube. Remove the socket/plug and check it is not ‘Gunged’ up. If it is, clean it out with a switch cleaner. Do the same with the rad. switch retainer.

Rad. Switch below the rad. outlet pipe

Radiator Switch

Rad switch/plug

Rad Switch cable Plug

    24. Check the paint work for stone chips and use paint dabber to prevent corrosion.

    25. Check the rear brakes, jack up and remove the wheel and hub. Ensure the brake piston is not leaking by peeling back the dust cover rubber. Clean out the interior of dust. Place some copper grease on moving parts, keep it clear of the linings.
    The removal of the rear wheels and brake drums can be an involved job, so some might want to leave this to a garage.

The above list is very comprehensive. Regarding the fluids, I wish I had taken my own advice when our brakes failed in France. If I had checked the fluids before a day's start, then I would have had an indication the brake fluid was being lost. As it was we had a massive brake failure in central France, May 2010, which required a breakdown recovery and a whole weekend at a camp site, then a day having the work done at a cost of €480 euros.


 

SERVICE SCHEDULE SHEET

PEUGEOT BOXER 1.9Ltr TURBO DIESEL WITH INTERCOOLER.

 

Vehicle Reg. No; ..................................................................

Date:...........................Mileage:............................................

 

Safety Considerations:

Servicing the Motorhome can be dangerous if  proper procedures are not followed.

Take care when jacking up the vehicle. Use proper tools and ensure the vehicle is on stands when doing any work after the vehicle is jacked up.

When jacking up ensure the wheels at the end, not being raised, are chocked.

Brake pad and linings dust can be  ASBESTOS.  wear a mask and do not inhale. It is carcogenic.

It is recommended to use a barrier cream on your hands while doing any work on the engine.

Oil should be disposed of at the local Authority dumps. Where they have facilities to empty your old oil.

Take the opportunity to run and test the engine after a service and dump your oil at the same time.

 

 

Every 6000 miles or every 6 Months, whatever the mileage: 

  • Drain old engine oil.

  • Renew engine OIL filter.

  • Renew engine OIL with 10W40SAE. As recommended in the handbook, and more suitable for the turbo in cold weather.

  • Renew engine AIR filter.

  • Renew engine FUEL filter. Fill filter container with diesel before re-fitting. Prime the rubber knob a few times to ensure the filter is full.

  • Check Radiator Coolant level and antifreeze concentration.

  • Check Brake Fluid.

  • Check Battery connections, and battery earth points on the engine. Place some silicon grease on the terminals.

  • Move front wheels to enable a check on the CV Gaiters. Also check the gaiters at the engine/gear box side. Note any oil leakages.

  • While in this position. Check suspension bushes for cracks and perishing.

  • Check gear box oil level with an ‘U’ bend piece of wire, into hole. If you get a dribble of oil when removing the bolt then all is OK and is full enough. [ This can only be done by removing the gear box sensor cables plug, then unscrewing and removing the sensor plug found on top of the gear box. [This does not apply to the XUD9TE engine gear box]]

  • Note: On the Boxer XUD9TE engine see my other pages showing the drain plug and filler plug. The above is not neccessary.

  • Check exhaust pipes from front to rear, also the flexible joint at the back of the engine from the exhaust manifold.

  • Check tyre pressures, not forgetting the spare tyre.

  • Slacken off front wheel bolts. Jack up front wheels, and remove wheel, check the brake discs and pads.

  • Check the brake flexible pipes.

  • Check all lights for function and note any splinter scratches on the headlamps.

  • Check Horn, wipers and rubbers, and washers for function and top up washer reservoir.

  • Grease and lubricate all hinges and catches, with special attention to the bonnet catch.

  • Check wiring under the bonnet for loose cables and plugs then secure them.

  • Check the radiator switch sensor located below the bottom radiator output tube. Remove the socket/plug and check it is not ‘Gunged’ up.

  • Clear leaves from the area around the base of the front windscreen.

  • Ensure the heater air input is clear of debris, and the water drain is clear, which drains to the interior of the engine compartment.

  • Check the paint work for stone chips and use paint dab to prevent corrosion.

  • Check the rear brakes, jack up and remove the wheel and hub. Ensure the brake piston is not leaking by peeling back the dust cover rubber. Clean out the interior of dust. Place some copper grease on moving parts, keep it clear of the linings.

  • Serviced by:...............................................................................

 

NOTE

See this web site for maintenance and service information:
ttp://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/base/workshop.htm

http://www.peugeotlogic.com/


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