Contents:
SERVICE SCHEDULE
PEUGEOT BOXER 1.9Ltr TURBO DIESEL WITH INTERCOOLER.
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Safety Considerations:
Servicing the
Motorhome can be dangerous if proper procedures are not followed.
Take care when
jacking up the vehicle. Use proper tools and ensure the vehicle is on
stands when doing any work after the vehicle is jacked up.
When jacking up
ensure the wheels at the end not being raised, are chocked.
Brake pads and
linings dust can be ASBESTOS. Wear a mask and do not
inhale. It is carcogenic.
It is recommended
to use gloves or/and a barrier cream on your hands while doing any
work on the engine.
Oil should be
disposed of at the local Authority dumps. Where they have facilities
to empty your old oil. [ Take the opportunity to test the engine
after a service and dump your oil]
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Engine Service Programme:
Most of us will take our vehicles to a
known garage and have the service performed.
My main service is due next March
2004. A recent magazine recommended a service for Motorhomes
which are laid up during winter, before the lay up.
Do I pay the full price of a garage or
perhaps do some routine servicing myself.
The 'Car Mechanics' magazine is a hive of
information for the DIY mechanic, after a few months reading and with
increased confidence, I decided at least to do an oil change.
Below are some hints I prepared for those
who might want to carry out their 'Service'
Service is recommended every 6000 miles or
every 6 Months. see schedule and photos below.
You will find a lot of the service
information is now required by law in the driving test.
Most of the work is non mechanical and
just requires a visual check, thereby giving oneself more confidence
driving the Motorhome.
I found my simple oil change developed
into a little more!
A work schedule might be:
-
Change the engine oil and oil filter, with
10W/40SAE. As recommended in the handbook, and more suitable for the
turbo in cold weather.
-
Renew diesel fuel filter. Prime the knob a
few times to fill the filter with fuel after the change.
-
Change the air filter.
-
Check the radiator coolant level in the
expansion tank.
-
Check the power steering fluid level.
-
Check the brake fluid.
-
Check the battery terminals. Place grease
on the terminals
-
Check the gear box oil level. This can be
difficult, perhaps a garage job. A Peter Russek Manual is recommended
for the gear box oil level checks and gear box oil change, which is
recommended every 40,000 miles. [ Cables to the monitoring plug have
to be removed and then the insert plug removed for checking!]
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Check the drive shaft gaiters and
suspension bushes, both inner at the gear box and outer at the wheel.
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Check the suspension bushes for cracks and perishing.
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Check the exhaust, especially the flexible
link between the manifold and the exhaust pipe.
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Check the brake pads and discs.
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Check and fill the windscreen washer reservoir.
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Check the tyre pressures including the spare.
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Check the Headlamps and windscreen for
stone damage.
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Check the functions of all the electrics,
lights, indicators, wipers, windscreen washers, and horn. Check the
hydraulic headlamp level adjustment.
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Lubricate all hinges and cables,
especially the bonnet catch.
-
Check as many of the electrical monitoring
plugs and sockets as possible in the engine looms. Pull them apart,
clean them with switch cleaner.
-
Clear all debris and leaves from the area
around the windscreen base and heater input.
-
Check the rear brakes and handbrake cable,
Ensure the brake pistons are not leaking. [This can be difficult,
perhaps a garage job. A Peter Russek Manual is recommended for the
this work, which is recommended every 40,000 miles.]
-
Check the clutch action. Do the gears
crash when changing some times? It did with mine because the cable
was not pulling the clutch off far enough. Tightening the clutch
cable about an inch cured the problem.
If you do carry out any service work. Make
a record of it! It is so easy to forget in 6 months time what you
did, the date and mileage.
Below I have included a service sheet
which I use when I do my own 'Servicing'
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Oil Sump and drain Plug. |
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Oil Filter |
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Air Filter. |
5. Renew diesel FUEL
filter. Prime the rubber knob a few times to fill the filter with
fuel after changing.
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Diesel Fuel Filter. |
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Check all rubber pipes |
10. Check Battery
connections, and battery earth points on the engine. Place some
silicon grease on the terminals. |
Battery |
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Gaiter on drive shaft |
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15. Check exhaust
pipes from front to rear, also the flexible joint at the back of the
engine from the exhaust manifold. |
Exhaust
Manifold Joint |
16. Check tyre
pressures, not forgetting the spare tyre.
See alongside my method of monitoring the
tyre pressures. |
Tyre Pressure Monitor
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17. Slacken off front wheel bolts.
Jack up front wheels and remove wheel, check the brake discs and pads. |
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19. Check Horn, wipers
and rubbers, and washers for function, and top up washer reservoir. |
New Horn |
20. Grease and lubricate all hinges and
catches, with special attention to the bonnet catch. |
Bonnet Catch |
21. Check wiring under the bonnet for
loose cables and plugs, secure them if required. |
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22. Clear leaves from
the area around the base of the front screen and bonnet heater input.
Ensure the heater air input is clear of
debris, and the water drain is clear, this drains down to the
interior of the engine compartment. |
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Leaf Debris on
the air input |
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23. Check the radiator switch
sensor located below the bottom radiator output tube. Remove the
socket/plug and check it is not ‘Gunged’ up. If it is,
clean it out with a switch cleaner. Do the same with the rad. switch retainer. |
Radiator Switch |
Rad Switch cable Plug |
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25. Check the rear brakes, jack up and
remove the wheel and hub. Ensure the brake piston is not leaking by
peeling back the dust cover rubber. Clean out the interior of dust.
Place some copper grease on moving parts, keep it clear of the linings.
The removal of the rear wheels and brake
drums can be an involved job, so some might want to leave this to a garage. |
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The
above list is very comprehensive. Regarding the fluids, I wish I had
taken my own advice when our brakes failed in France. If I had
checked the fluids before a day's start, then I would have had an
indication the brake fluid was being lost. As it was we had a massive
brake failure in central France, May 2010, which required a brakedown
recovery and a day having the work done at a cost of €480 euros.
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SERVICE
SCHEDULE SHEET
PEUGEOT
BOXER 1.9Ltr TURBO DIESEL WITH INTERCOOLER.
Vehicle
Reg. No; ..................................................................
Date:...........................Mileage:............................................
Safety
Considerations:
Servicing
the Motorhome can be dangerous if proper procedures are not followed.
Take
care when jacking up the vehicle. Use proper tools and ensure the
vehicle is on stands when doing any work after the vehicle is jacked up.
When
jacking up ensure the wheels at the end, not being raised, are chocked.
Brake
pad and linings dust can be ASBESTOS. wear a mask and do
not inhale. It is carcogenic.
It
is recommended to use a barrier cream on your hands while doing any
work on the engine.
Oil
should be disposed of at the local Authority dumps. Where they have
facilities to empty your old oil.
Take
the opportunity to test the engine after a service and dump your oil.
|
|
- Every
6000 miles or every 6 Months, whatever the mileage:
-
Drain
old engine oil.
-
Renew
engine OIL filter.
-
Renew
engine OIL with 10W40SAE. As recommended in the handbook, and more
suitable for the turbo in cold weather.
-
Renew
engine AIR filter.
-
Renew
engine FUEL filter. Prime the rubber knob a few times to fill the
filter with fuel.
-
Check
Radiator Coolant level and concentration.
-
Check
Brake Fluid.
-
Check
Battery connections, and battery earth points on the engine. Place
some silicon grease on the terminals.
-
Move
front wheels to enable a check on the CV Gaiters. Also check the
gaiters at the engine/gear box side. Note any oil leakages.
-
While
in this position. Check suspension bushes for cracks and perishing.
-
Check
gear box oil level with an ‘U’ bend piece of wire, into
hole. If you get a dribble of oil when removing the bolt then all is
OK and is full enough. [ This can only be done by removing the gear
box sensor cables plug, then unscrewing and removing the sensor plug
found on top of the gear box.]
-
Check
exhaust pipes from front to rear, also the flexible joint at the
back of the engine from the exhaust manifold.
-
Check
tyre pressures, not forgetting the spare tyre.
-
Slacken
off front wheel bolts. Jack up front wheels, and remove wheel, check
the brake discs and pads.
-
Check
the brake flexible pipes.
-
Check
all lights for function and note any splinter scratches on the headlamps.
-
Check
Horn, wipers and rubbers, and washers for function and top up washer reservoir.
-
Grease
and lubricate all hinges and catches, with special attention to the
bonnet catch.
-
Check
wiring under the bonnet for loose cables and plugs then secure them.
-
Check
the radiator switch sensor located below the bottom radiator output
tube. Remove the socket/plug and check it is not ‘Gunged’ up.
-
Clear
leaves from the area around the base of the front windscreen.
-
Ensure
the heater air input is clear of debris, and the water drain is
clear, which drains to the interior of the engine compartment.
-
Check
the paint work for stone chips and use paint dab to prevent corrosion.
-
Check
the rear brakes, jack up and remove the wheel and hub. Ensure the
brake piston is not leaking by peeling back the dust cover rubber.
Clean out the interior of dust. Place some copper grease on moving
parts, keep it clear of the linings.
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Serviced
by:...............................................................................
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NOTE
See this web
site for maintenance and service information:
ttp://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/base/workshop.htm
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