Contents: 1. Battery
Alternator and replacement
Plastic Battery Tray
maintenance is not something that is done very often by me. Until
one day I decided to check the battery fluid levels. I read somewhere
that battery levels can diminish quite rapidly. I now have a
taking the filler caps off, checking at the front was not a
problem, but the others were. Due to the overhang of the engine
compartment fittings, It is not possible to see the filler hole
levels at the back. I came up with this solution, which is probably
familiar to most people.
Distilled battery water from a Motor factor, not tap water. With a
flexible extension pipe battery filler - I made up a plastic bottle.
Fill the back cell first, until you see the fluid just overflowing,
empty the filler, squeeze the bellows, allow the bottle to suck up
the surplus, then empty it into the second from the end filler hole.
Do the same with each cell aperture.
not to allow the water to overflow as it has an acid content and
will soon show up on the battery tray, and cross member, by rusting.
Battery Filler, part Ref: 14900, can be obtained from: Vehicle
Wiring Products, complete address below.
the battery. Start the engine, with your test meter. The battery
voltage should increase slightly from a nominal 12.5 v fully charged
battery, when the engine is idling, and depending on the load on the
battery. As the revs are increased then the voltage reading will rise
up to a maximum of around 13.8 volts, if the alternator is operating
correctly. Over 14.5 volts or a fluctuation in voltage at steady revs
above idle, indicate a faulty voltage regulator in the alternator.
A simple way of
testing this alternator function without a voltmeter is to watch the
brightness of the interior reading lamp between idle and around 2000
rpm. It should brighten as the battery voltage increases when the
alternator is producing a charge current.
charged, healthy battery with no load (headlights on, etc.) will
still be trickled charged and showing around 13.6v about 0.5v above
nominal battery voltage when engine is ticking over.
Many thanks for
this information which came from: "Alan Eccles"
I have included
below for the interest of the DIY mechanic, details of the
Alternator. Connectors can be seen on the drawing 'Alternator
Contacts' and the internal workings can be seen in the drawing
'Alternator contacts Internally'
On the B+
contact can be found the heavy cable to the battery, usually covered
in RED insulation. Often there is also a heavy cable to the starter
motor at this point.
The D+ cable,
in the Boxer covered with a BLUE insulation, is the cable which is
used for the Fridge voltage control when the vehicle is running.
The W contact
is used for Tachometer Meter functions.
For a larger image.]
to change the alternator & Power
Assistance Servo drive belts
The alternator and PAS
belts can be an easy job for a persistant DIY mechanic. This does
require one to get under
the van. I drove the van onto ramps and chocked the wheels, very
important when working under the van. As the ramps are not very high
this meant me working on my back, using a
tarpaulin to lay on.
1. Remove the protecting
tray under the alternator area. On my van I required 17mm,
15mm and 10mm spanners.
2. Remove the PAS belt
first as it is over and covers the Alternator belt.
remove, unscrew the two securing shaft screws. These can be very
tight and will require good quality spanners.
the 13mm adjuster securing bolt. The PAS pump will now swing in and
allow the belt to be removed and enable the changing of the
3. Remove the alternator
belt. Slacken off the shaft bolt.
off the tension adjust securing bolt on top of the alternator.
off the tension 10mm bolt which adjusts the belt, on top side of the alternator.
alternator will now swing in and allow the belt to be removed.
See the pictures below;
Note: I found the PAS pump
could not be swung in far enough to remove the belt. This required a
removal of the shaft screws entirely.
If the shaft screws are too
tight for removal spray with 3in1 oil or any suitable oil to ease it
Fitting of the belts is
reverse of removal. Ensure the belts are not too tight. It should be
possible to squeeze them
over 90 degrees in about 1/4" or 10mm.
The only reason for the
change was the belt had a squeel on start up and a 'Shushing' sound
when running, not heard before. When the belt was off I found it had
split 40% horizontally, almost making two belts working in parallel.
View while adjusting
6PK730 6 Ribbed Belt
View while adjusting
from the Battery
the van in winter storage I normally take off the negative terminal
to reduce the battery drain. That was until I read in a car
maintenance magazine, whereby removing and installing a battery
cable, it could cause a spark that would ignite the battery gases and explode.
My solution was
to fit a switch from the negative terminal to the earth
strap. See my Sketch. I have secured the switch under the
1. The Battery
Isolator switch and spare keys Catalogue Ref:BIS.
2. Crimp on
clamp and Ring cable Ref:BCN..
cable with rings both ends Ref:SSN.
Items can be
Products, 9, Buxton Court, Manners Industrial Estate, Ilkeston,
Derbyshire. DE7 8EF U.K.
Tel: 0115 9305454
Web site: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/
comment queried the possible running problem if an electronic ECU is fitted.
Advice from the
'CarMechanics' magazine was obtained:
battery, start the engine and let it idle until the cooling fan comes
on. Then drive the vehicle for about 15 minutes, trying to keep the
revs up above 2000rpm.
At the end of
this the vehicle should have re-learned it's operating parameters.
Due to water
overflowing from the bonnet, Peugeot developed a plastic tray which
was placed inside the main metal battery tray. This tray would
collect the overflow water and drain to the floor via a plastic pipe
which is a push fit onto the plastic tray extension drain pipe.
My plastic tray
extension pipe had broken, so I purchased a new one from a Peugeot
dealer at £4.75. [Oct 2005]
On replacing, I
found the tray to be slightly different, the tray drain pipe was
closer to the edge. This meant I had to cut the metal battery support
tray to accommodate the mechanical change. I suspect the change was
due to the pipe being too close to the wheel arch and when connected
to the pipe probably meant the pipe was a tight fit and being edged
away from the wheel arch, and in time would split. As in my case.
See my sketch
below, where the differences can be seen.
water away from the tray does not alter the problem where the
overflow from the windscreen splashes on the battery before it enters
the tray. A quick and dirty solution was to fit a plastic cover over
the battery and secure it with an elastic 'Bungy.' I'm afraid this
solution has become permanent with me!
temporary cover the splashed water enters the battery filling it,
when it overflows the acid causes chassis damage. It is imperative
the tray is secure and in good condition.
Solar panels is
a subject frequently talked about. Something for nothing! That is of
course after you have purchased an expensive alternative.
I use a solar
panel for 'Topping' up my battery while the vehicle is not used.
panel was quite easy, black crocdile clip to negative terminal, and
red clip to positive terminal.
The first thing
that came to mind when I connected these terminals was; where was the
fuse to protect the cables from the battery to the solar panel? This
missing item could cause heavy current from the battery, should the
door jam on the cables. This in turn would melt the cables and
produce a fire, when the vehicle was not attended.
something all owners of solar panels must consider. A fuse and fuse
container should be fitted within inches [Centimetres] of the
battery. Not just to protect the solar panel but to ensure should the
cable get 'snagged' then it will blow the fuse and isolate the
battery. Having experience in my working life the short circuit of a
battery, I don't want it happening to me!
to a battery which had been left standing a fortnight, I found the
current from the solar panel, on a dull day, was 6milliamps
[0.006Amps] Had the battery been discharged I would have expected a
Below can be
seen my solar panel with fuse inserted close to
feature, I have purchased another solar panel which are now so much
cheaper than my original. The fittings are just the same.
The replaced the solar panel is a larger one with increased
This panel from
Ebay was £24 during 2014, This is able to give a charge of 6
Amps on a good day and has a charger controller to ensure no overcharging.
Solar panel connectors
Solar panel plugs
Solar panel on Dash
fitted to battery, with in line fuse.
Inline fuse box
added to solar panel cable
Inline 5 Amp fuse.