PEUGEOT BOXER 1.9Ltr Diesel Engine Page 16

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 To contact brian,

You will find clicking on my email contact will bring up message 'ActiveX code' just click OK

These pages are dedicated to my experiences of the Peugeot Boxer, 1.9Ltr Turbo Diesel engine and not definitive advise. 

Keep forgetting your MOT, then this site will remind you:
http://auto-reminder.co.uk/

Great Ormond Street Hospital  Children's Charity 
Great Ormond Street Hospital, Children's Charity, 40 Bernard Street, London.  WC1N 1LE
Tel: 020 7239 3000 
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New additions: 

1.Fitting a Turbo Boost Gauge
2.Replacing clutch Cable 

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Contents:
1. Clutch Cable Removal and Replacing. 2. Snapped bonnet catch cable.  3. Cable repair


Clutch Cable Removal &  Installation

As supplied by: EUROCARCARE

www.eurocarcare.co.uk

Tel: 044(0)1332257401
Email:  parts@eurocarcare.co.uk
Web:  www.eurocarcare.net
Skype:  eurocarcare

 clutch cable supplied

Part No: FKC 1433
I found the cable supplied by  'Eurocarcare' was an exact copy of the original.

Loudspeaker panel

LS Panel driver side

Loud Speaker panel removed

After a long journey in France I experienced a left foot pain. It was suggested a tendon had  stretched causing the problem. I  thought perhaps the problem was due to a hard clutch  function.  I decided to change the clutch cable to assess whether the problem could be the clutch.

This is how I changed the  clutch  cable, a professional mechanic will  probably have an easier method;

Remove the front loudspeaker retainer panel under the  steering wheel.

Make a note on how the spacing pieces on the clutch cable end are fitted to the clutch lever.
Make some measurements. I found the clutch lever side  was 4-1/2 inches from the bracket face.

Old cable in position

Old cable fitting as measured

Remove all the cable clips securing  the cable in the engine  compartment.
Unscrew the securing nuts at the clutch lever  end and  remove the cable.
leaving just the cable in the clutch pedal  end, in  the firewall panel.

 

New cable fitted and  old measurement being used

In  the cab press down the clutch foot lever pedal, this will pull the  released cable  into the cab area.
The arrow shows the 'D'  piece of the end of the clutch cable
[Due to the position this is the best  picture I could obtain]

 

The D piece at the cable  end must now be removed from clutch pedal.  Seen arrowed above.

Holding the  foot clutch lever pedal to the floor, in that position, lever  out the D  piece at the end  of the cable, from the horizontal to the vertical. Then  pull it out of the foot pedal  retainer
 securing it.
[ I found a small screw driver placed inside and under the  D piece end was enough to lever the
 D piece  out of the clutch lever  retainer.] 
I was not sure how to remove the firewall plug securing the cable, inside  the engine compartment.   I could not get at it from the  inside, so I used two pry bars either side of the cable plug and it  popped out. See picture below, arrows indicate  the 'pry bars':

 

 

Remove the cable completely.

How I fitted the new  clutch  cable:
Press the  clutch cable securing plug  into position, at the back of the firewall.
Using pry bars I pushed either side, it popped back  into position.
Fit  the clutch cable back into all the securing  clips in engine compartment.
Place the cable end and securing  pieces into position into the clutch lever.
Dont fit nuts yet.
Inside the cab, push the clutch foot lever to the  floor.
Pull the D piece at the end of the clutch  cable and place over the clutch lever  pedal retainer, push it in as done before by placing  the 'D' piece into a vertical position, push down into the clutch pedal  retainer,  then into horizontal  position. Ensure  it is secure.
Lift the clutch foot lever pedal to its normal  position.
Place a wedge under it at a position equal to the  height of the brake pedal.
Or, see the instructions at the end.

Ensure all the cable retainer clips are  secure in the engine compartment 

 

At the engine clutch lever end, fit all  pieces together as you found it previously with the old  one and fit the securing nuts.

Screw up the nuts until you reach the measurements  previously made with the old cable. On mine it was  4 1/2" as in the picture below.

 

Clutch fitted and being checked as previously

Start up the engine and do a Feel of the clutch position. I found the clutch was too near the floor when the  clutch was being taken up,  so I adjusted screw nuts and screwed up tighter  about 4mm. I then found the clutch was  taken up at about half position. As the clutch lever movement is only 1/2 inch  the nuts dont need much adjustment.
Ensure the pedal remains in the position level with the foot brake. Job done.

Re-fit front loudspeaker retainer panel under the  steering wheel. And do some driving to assess whether the clutch fault is  still there.
With me I found the clutch movement was soo smooth I decided my clutch fault was the cable all along.  Time will tell. See below for the information on correct adjustments to the clutch.

 

By Peugeot Pete
Peugeot 405 Clutch Cable Adjustment:-

Peugeot 405 Clutch Cable Adjustment

By Peugeot Pete:- 

SPECIFICATIONS: 1988 TO 1996

   Models up to 1992 .... 145mm

   Models from 1993 on .. 162mm +/- 12.0mm

NOTE: From mid-94 an automatically adjusted cable was progressively introduced.

The clutch adjustment is checked by measuring the clutch pedal travel.
If a new cable has been fitted, settle it in position by depressing the clutch pedal at least 20 times.
Ensure that there are no obstructions beneath the clutch pedal.

Depress the clutch pedal fully to the floor, and measure the distance from the center of the clutch pedal pad to the floor.

Now release the pedal and again measure the distance from the pedal to the floor.

Subtract the first measurement from the second to obtain the clutch pedal travel.

If this is not within the range given in the specifications, adjust the cable as follows.

The clutch cable is adjusted by means of the adjuster nut on the transmission end of the inner cable.

On some models, access to the locknut is limited and, if required, the air cleaner duct or housing component can be removed or disconnected to improve access.

Working in the engine compartment, slacken the locknut on the end of the clutch cable.

Adjust the position of the adjuster nut, then re-measure the clutch pedal travel.

Repeat this procedure until the clutch pedal travel is as specified.

Once the adjuster nut is correctly positioned, and the pedal travel is correctly set, securely tighten the cable locknut.

Where necessary, refit any disturbed air cleaner duct/housing components.

Compiled and Authored by

PEUGEOT PETE

peugpete@aol.com
Pedigreed Junk Yard Dog

Above; Compiled and Authored by
PEUGEOT PETE
peugpete@aol.com


Snapped bonnet catch cable

On the morning of our departure for France, I pulled the bonnet lever and I heard that ominous 'Ping' and a brass 6 sided piece fell to the cab floor. The bonnet cable had snapped at the pull handle!

My local garage was unable to repair or supply a new cable in such short notice. So I had to improvise.

As the bonnet had opened, It was imperative, I had to be able to open it again for checking oil, water etc, during our run to the South of France. Simple ideas are the best.

I fitted a nylon cord to the bonnet catch, along side the original, and placed it in a position where I could open it from the front and top of the radiator, outside of the bonnet.

Pictures of my solution:

Cord has been retrieved from its resting position behind the trim

Cord pulled and the bonnet is open

Bonnet open showing the cord in position

Close up of the cord wrapped around the original bonnet cable

 

Bonnet Cable Repaired

I have repaired the bonnet release cable . A new one is available, but not at the time I needed it.
To carry out the repair I had to remove the cable from its holder, at the back of the pull handle in the cab. This meant taking off the front panel around the pull handle. [ See previous pictures on how to do this ]   At the back of the pull handle is seen the cable secured in the bracket with a retainer of white plastic material secured with 'Wing flaps', the 'Wing' flaps on the retainer must be squeezed in then the cable pulled back for removal. This can be quite struggle. See the middle picture where my struggle has shown damage to the material. But, being robust is still usable.
My pictures illustrate my repair, basically I produced a rounded block, from a steel bolt, then drilled a hole, the diameter of the cable, into the body centre horizontally. I then pushed the cable into the hole and levered it back 90degrees, to offset my lack of a correct crimping tool. After that I squeezed the rounded block with a 'mole' grip to secure the whole thing.


Image of the original cable clamp snapped off
9mm wide and 5mm deep

Repaired cable block on the edge
Repaired cable block on cable end


Another opposite side view of the repair block attached to the bonnet cable

View of the repaired cable behind the pull handle
View of the repaired cable behind the pull handle

View of retainer block inside the rear of pull handle
View of cable retainer block inside the rear of pull handle

Repair block measurments
Repaired block measurments


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